Remembering Julia Child (and Boeuf Bourguinon)

As it may be for many (or most) of you, I have a great fondness for Juila Child. My first exposure to her TV series began in high school and continued through college. My friends and I laughed until our stomachs hurt watching the SNL segments parodying Julia, especially since we've been doing it ourselves when cooking. My love of reading and collecting cookbooks sprouted from reading (and drooling over) Mastering the Art of French Cooking and The Joy of Cooking.

I miss her shows but am glad there are occasional reruns of them. I've always found her (and Jacques Pépin, another fave) to be a reassuring presence on the small screen. But now, I can find her on the big screen as well, thanks to Meryl Streep.

A couple of months ago, I went to a private screening of the upcoming movie titled Julie and Julia, starring Meryl Streep and Amy Adams. i won't get into what the movie is about other than that it is partly about Julia Child. Meryl Streep plays the part of Julia Child with the superb skill she is famous for. Watching the movie, one forgets that it is not really Julia up there. She is that good. The story is heartwarming and inspirational. This is the all-time feel good movie. And one remembers why Julia Child remains a strong favorite for many (or most) of us.

When the movie comes out on August 7, do go see it. You won't regret it. BUT, make sure you have a hearty meal beforehand. AND, make sure you have all the makings for Boeuf Bourguinon at home because, trust me, you will walk away from the movie with an uncontrollable craving for it. I certainly did and ended up making it the next day.

Here's the recipe from Julia's book. Don't let the long list of ingredients and directions scare you away. It's really quite easy to make. It just takes time and loving care. And the results are well worth it...even turning the oven on to 450 degrees during the hot months of the summer.

Boeuf Bourguignon

(from Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child, Simone Beck, & Louisette Bertholle)

Serves 6

Note from the authors: Boiled potatoes are traditionally served with this dish. Buttered noodles or steamed rice may be substituted. If you also wish a green vegetable, buttered peas would be your best choice. Serve with the beef a fairly full-bodied, young red wine like Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône, Bordeaus-St. Émilion, or Burgundy.

Ingredients

For the stew:

• 6-ounce chunk of bacon
• 1 Tbsp olive oil
• 3 lbs lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
• 1 slice carrot
• 1 sliced onion
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/4 tsp pepper
• 2 Tbsp flour
• 3 cups red wine (full-bodied, young red wine like Beaujolais, Côtes du Rhône, Bordeaux-St. Émilion, or Burgundy...or Chianti)
• 2-3 cups brown beef stock or canned beef bouillon
• 1 Tbsp tomato paste
• 2 cloves mashed garlic
• 1/2 tsp thyme (I used 2 sprigs of fresh thyme)
• 1 bay leaf, crumbled
• Blanched bacon rind (from the bacon chunk)

For the braised onions:

• 18-24 white pearl onions, peeled
• 1-1/2 Tbsp unsalted butter
• 1-1/2 Tbsp oil
• 1/2 cup brown stock, canned bouillon, dry white wine, red wine, or water
• salt and pepper to taste
• A medium herb bouquet (4 parsley sprigs, 1/2 bay leaf and 1/4 tsp thyme tied in cheesecloth)

For the sautéed mushrooms:

• 2 Tbsp butter
• 1 Tbsp oil
• 1/2 lb fresh mushrooms, washed, well dried, left whole if small, sliced or quartered if large)
• 1-2 Tbsp minced shallots or green onions (optional)
• salt and pepper (optional)

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Remove rind from the bacon chunk, and cut into lardons (1/4 inch thick and 1-1/2 inches long)
3. Sauté the bacon in the oil over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon. Set casserole aside. Reheat until fat is almost smoking before you sauté the beef.
4. Dry the beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Sauté it, a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the bacon [set aside].
5. in the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the sautéing fat.
6. Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly with the flour. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat and return to oven for 4 minutes more. (This browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust.) Remove casserole, and turn oven down to 325 degrees.
7. Stir in the wine, and enough stock or bouillon so that the meat is barely covered. Add tomato paste, garlic, herbs, and bacon rind. Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and set in lower third of preheated oven. Regulate heat so liquid simmers very slowly for 3 to 4 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily.
8. While the beef is cooking, prepare the onions and mushrooms. Set aside until needed.
9. For the onions: When the butter and oil are bubbling in the skillet, add the onions and sauté over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling the onions about so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect to brown them uniformly.
10. Pour in the liquid, season to taste, and add the herb bouquet. Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 90 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape, and the liquid has evaporated. Remove herb bouquet.
11. For the mushrooms: Place the skillet over high heat with the butter and oil. As soon as you see that the butter foam has begun to subside, indicating it is hot enough, add the mushrooms. Toss and shake the pan for 4 to 5 minutes. During their sauté the mushrooms will at first absorb the fat. In 2 to 3 minutes the fat will reappear on their surface, and the mushrooms will begin to brown. As soon as they have browned lightly, remove from heat.
12. [If using shallots] Toss the shallots or green onions with the mushrooms. Sauté over moderate heat for 2 minutes.
13. When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms over the meat.
14. Skim fat off the sauce. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2-1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons of stock or canned bouillon. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables.
15. (Recipe may be completed in advance up to this point.)
16. For immediate serving: Cover the casserole and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in its casserole, or arrange the stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles or rice, and decorated with parsley.
17. For later serving: When cold, cover and refrigerate. About 15 to 30 minutes before serving, bring to a simmer, cover, and simmer very slowly for 10 minutes, occasionally basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce.

Bon Appétit!